Choosing Wool Fabric: Boucle Fabric
Wool is from animal coats. There are two types of wool, woolen and worsted. Worsted wool is carded and combed and is usually superior in quality - strong, smooth and has luster. Worsted wool lasts longer and wears better, however they are harder to sew. Examples of worsteds: gabardine, tartans, wool challis, and worsted suitings. Woolens are woven from yarns that are made of shorter fibers. Because they are spun loosely, they are fuzzier and softer than worsted wool. Examples of woolens:
boucle fabric, herringbone, hounds tooth, melton, wool flannel and wool tweeds.
How to Choose Wool Fabric
- Look for moth holes and other imperfections.
- Check if the fabric wrinkles easily. This can be done by squeezing the fabric.
- Using your thumbnail, scrape the fabric. If it separates easily, this means that the fabric may not wear well and will ravel.
Wool Boucle Fabric
This fabric is loosely woven or knitted fabric, that has small loops (curls), which make the surface nubby. It is often used for vests, unlined and unstructured coats, and sweater looking garments. Moreover boucle fabric resists wrinkles.
Fabric Preparation: Preshrink by holding steam iron over fabric, approx ½ inch, or dry-clean
Layout/Cutting/Marking
- Use the with nap layout, and cut single thickness.
- Needles - Sharps size 80/12
Pressing
Steam iron at wool setting, on wrong side, light pressure. Or, use wool ironing board cover; press with wool (boucle best) press cloth on right side. Boucle fabrics can be damaged very easily. To revive the texture, hold a steam iron 1 1/2” over fabric and steam generously.
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