What is Poplin?

Definition: Poplin

Poplin is a textured polyester and is medium weight and FR NFPA 701 (Fire Retardant). It has several uses such as banners, table and chair covering, table skirting, choir, graduation and judicial robes, lighting projection, party, event exhibits, backdrop, ceiling and wall drops as well as curtains or draperies.

Image via Flickr

Traditionally, poplin fabric consists of silk warp with a weft of worsted yarn. Today, there are several varieties that can be found such as those made with wool, cotton, silk, rayon, or any mixture of these, though originally made from silk. Shirts made from this material are easy to iron and do not wrinkle easily.

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What is a Bobbin Thread?

What is Bobbin Thread?

A bobbin thread is not the thread that is often used in a bobbin. Most often, the thread used in the upper threading and the bobbin of a sewing machine is the same. A bobbin thread is a very lightweight thread. This type of thread is the thread used for machine embroidery or basting. It allows the back of the applique or the design to be less dense than the front design. It works best and helpful when you are embroidering a light weight fabric.  This prevents the dense embroidery to be more dense and rigid than the fabric and keeps it more pliable than it would be with regular thread in the bobbin. When used for machine basting, in many instances,  it can be left in rather than fighting to remove the basting. This thread is more delicate thread than your regular sewing thread. Since bobbin thread is a thinner thread, it will not be as over powering as regular weight sewing thread. A machine blind stitch sewn with bobbin thread on shear fabric can be much more invisible than if it is sewn with regular thread. Definition of Terms Bobbin. A bobbin is a spindle or cylinder, with or without flanges, on which yarn,or thread is wound. As used in spinning, weaving, knitting, sewing, or lacemaking, the bobbin provides temporary or permanent storage for yarn and may be made of plastic, metal, bone or wood.    

Read more about SEWING MACHINE REPAIR.

Sewing Machine Repair: Tension Problems

Sewing Machine Tension Problems?

When a sewing machine gets into trouble, most people would think that the problem is with the machine tension. However, most often, you do not mess with tension settings or tension disks. If true tension adjustments are required, the best help you can get is your machine manual for adjusting the tension settings of your machine.

Tension Disks:

Tensions disks control the amount of pressure applied to the thread for an even feed to the machine needle causing an evenly formed stitch. Always have the presser foot raised when threading the sewing machine so that the disks are not engaged and are open to accept the thread.

Adjusting Machine Tension:

Sewing machine tension is adjusted when the bobbin and upper thread is not even on both sides of the fabric. When sewing two layers of fabric the intersection of the bobbin and upper thread should be between the two layers of fabric.

Righty Tighty Lefty Lucy:

"Righty Tighty, Lefty Lucy" refers to turning the adjustment to the right to tighten the upper thread tension and turning the adjustment to the left to make the upper thread tension looser.  

Care of Tension Disks:

• Refer to your sewing machine manual when you need help so as appropriate steps can be taken.
• Clean the disks with a soft brush to prevent dust and lint from building up between the disks.
• Always check for a loose thread stuck in the tension disks when adjustments are not making a difference.

  More articles on SEWING MACHINE REPAIR.

Bobbin Thread Bunching, Looping and Tangling

Sewing Machine Repair: Bunching, Looping and Tangling Bobbin Thread

One of the sewing machine troubles that you can deal with at home is when you just want to sew and  the machine produces looping, tangling and and a bird's nest on the bobbin side of the fabric. Most people would put the blame to the bobbin but it's not often the culprit! The looping bobbin thread is usually caused by the upper threading of the sewing machine. Here are some of the tips to help you out with Bobbin Thread Bunching, Looping and Tangling.

1. Always thread the sewing machine with the presser foot up. When the presser foot is down, the tension is engaged and it will not allow the thread to seat properly.
2. Re-thread the sewing machine making sure the thread is passing through every thread guide on its way to the sewing machine needle.
3. Change the sewing machine needle if you still have a looping bobbin thread. Be sure you are using the proper sewing machine needle for the fabric you are sewing and the job at hand.

Sewing Machine Repair: Basic Maintenance

Basic Sewing Machine Maintenance

A sewing machine is always part of a tailor's life. Therefore, it is necessary that it is kept good so as to have longer life and give longer service. But how do you do basic maintenance of your sewing machine or do sewing machine repair?

Refer to your sewing machine manual

Your sewing machine manual is your best friend when it comes to troubleshooting your machine. Make sure that you secure your copy so that you can easily find it when you need it.

Unplug Your Machine When cleaning your machine for maintenance, make sure that you unplug your machine. This is for your own safety and to prevent damage to your machine.  

Sewing Machine Oil

 If you are not familiar with sewing machine oil, this type of oil is a clear white oil.  Oiling the machine lubricates your moving parts to prevent wear. It also reduce the risk of rust. Rust forms rapidly with any dampness, even just the humidity in the air. Surface rust can act just like loose sand granule in your machine, and create excess wear.  

Loose Screws It is best that while you are oiling your machine, you also tighten the loose screws that you come across with. Set screws which usually require hex key wrenches, should only be adjusted by a repair person unless you have a complete understanding of the timing of your sewing machine.  

Wires

You should always be watching for wear signs on wires but while you’re cleaning your machine, take the time to honestly inspect the wires.  

Other references for Sewing Machine Repair

How To: Clean/Oil Your Sewing Machine | Make It and Love It   How expensive is that sewing machine check up you get? Servicing a machine seems so expensive to me, at least $100. They did say my inexpensive machine was worth servicing, because it was not made of plastic and ...  

 

Uses of Silk Velvet

All velvet fabrics can be dyed effectively with deep colors. Dark shades are preferred because it can highlight the rich pile of the fabric. Most often, silk/rayon blend velvet is used for flowing dresses and evening wear which emphasize its soft drape. Meanwhile, synthetic velvet made completely of acetate or rayon is less expensive and easier to care for and is often substituted for a silk/rayon blend. This type of velvet can be used for all types of soft garments. For both home decorating and clothing, cotton velvet is the most suitable. Vests, skirts, blazers and coats can be made from cotton velvet. It's also used for costumes. The durability of cotton velvet also makes it ideal for home furnishings. Sumptuous bed coverings, upholstery, draperies and cushions can be made from cotton velvet.    

How to Clean Silk Velvet?

Silk Velvet: Cleaning

Aside from being an expensive fabric, many people are hesitant to buy velvet fabric because of the cleaning method you need to use. But for synthetic and cotton velvet, you can clean it yourself. However, silk velvet needs to be dry cleaned.

Other References for Cleaning Silk Velvet

How to Revive a Silk Velvet Dress | Cleaning Guides

Cory asked: How do I clean a silk velvet dress? There are a few small spots where the velvet is flattened, but when I run my finger over it from the back...



Maintenance of knowledge of different fabrics evening dress

Some dry cleaner through steaming and polished to the small villi stand up again, silk velvet is most responsive, but you can not try it yourself. Food or beverage is not avoidable, the children will get the clothes on their own ...

How to Sew Silk Velvet?

Silk velvet is an expensive fabric you may find difficult to deal with. Stretching and size distortion are possible if careful handling and basting aren't part of the construction of the garment. Spray glues will probably stain the silk so these products should be avoided.

In each step of construction make sure the fabric is supported by laying it on a table or desk. Holding the fabric in in your lap just doesn't work as the velvet will stretch and become distorted. Using very fine pins, pin the fabric and hand baste then machine baste. Make sure your machine and the area to the left of it is flush so that you are not getting drag. Check your stitches, make any corrections, then stitch. An added tip is to use different colored thread for the machine basting so you can easily see what stitches to remove.

Tips for Sewing Velvet Fabric

by ehow.com


When pinning velvet fabric in preparation for sewing, place pins in seam lines to avoid leaving marks. Seams should be stitched in the direction of the nap whenever possible. When pressing seams, do not place a hot iron directly on either side of the velvet fabric. An iron applied directly will permanently crush the pile. Instead, apply steam to the velvet or use a special ironing board known as a needle board. Practice using the needle board on a scrap of velvet to make sure the pile is not damaged.

Silk Velvet: An Overview

Silk Velvet Composition

by Wikipedia

Velvet is woven on a special loom that weaves two thicknesses of velvet at the same time. The two pieces are then cut apart to create the pile effect, and the two lengths of fabric are wound on separate take-up rolls. Velvet was expensive to make before industrial power looms became available. Velvet is difficult to clean because of its pile, but modern dry cleaning methods make cleaning more feasible. Velvet pile is created by warp or vertical yarns and velveteen pile is created by weft or fill yarns.

Velvet can be made from many different kinds of fibres, traditionally silk. Velvet made entirely from silk (silk velvet) has market prices of several hundred US dollars per yard. Cotton can also be used, though this often results in a slightly less luxurious fabric. Velvet can also be made from fibers such as linen, mohair, and wool. More recently, synthetic velvets have been developed, mostly polyester, nylon, viscose, acetate, and mixtures of different synthetics, or synthetics and natural fibers (for example viscose mixed with silk). A small percentage of spandex is sometimes added to give stretch.

What can be made from Silk Velvet?

Stylish and Useful – Silk Velvet Bags 

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Burnout Silk Velvet Tunic

Ulla Popken Mosaic Burnout Silk Velvet Tunic Overview. True luxury. A mosaic of color-including a sprinkling of turquoise-shimmers in this lustrous burnout velvet tunic. Button-front with mandarin collar, side vents. Relaxed fit.

Polyester Voile Dress

Polyester Voile Dresses

Voile fabrics especially those made from polyester are often used as curtains. But polyester voile also works well in dresses especially beach dresses. Here are some good examples.





White Poly Voile Tiered Dress with Wide Belt.



This polyester voile dress has adjustable straps levels and a substantial 2 “elastic band. The fabric has a soft glow that lets you wear a pair of heels or use it as a beach cover-up.

















Maxi Polyester Voile Dress

Breezy maxi dress for your beach outfit! Multifunctional and perfect outfit for the weekend!















Long Sleeveless Crinkle Voile Dress with V-Neckline

This long dress in light crinkle voile smothered in flowers is a pure delight! Deep V-neckline trimmed with a rose embroidered with sequins. 2 long panels to leave loose at the front. Length approx. 140 cm. Long, floaty dress in 100% polyester. Fully lined in 100% polyester. Long sleeveless dress with concealed side zip fastening. Wide flounced hem. Ultra feminine details, sequins, a riot of flowers and fancy detailing.

Voile Panels and Curtains

Voile is a soft, sheer fabric, usually made of 100% cotton or cotton blends including linen or polyester. The term comes from French, and means veil. Because of its light weight, the fabric is mostly used in soft furnishing. Full-length curtains in hot countries are made with voile and used as window treatments, mosquito nets etc. When used as curtain material they are similar to net curtains.

Here are some good examples of voile curtains I found on the web.

[caption id="attachment_119804" align="aligncenter" width="525"] Image by linencupboard.com[/caption]

History of Broadcloth

A Brief History of Broadcloth

As Wikipedia defines:

Broadcloth - the English term - was first prodcued in Flanders from the 11th century and throughout the medieval period.

Around 1500, broadcloth was made in a number of districts of England, including Essex and Suffolk in southern East Anglia, the West Country Clothing District (Gloucestershire, Wiltshire, east Somerset - sometimes with adjacent areas), at Worcester, Coventry, Cranbrook in Kent and some other places.

This was the best English cloth, and large quantities were exported by the merchants of the Company of Merchant Adventurers of London, principally to Antwerp as white (i.e. undyed) cloth. It was finished and dyed in Flanders, and then marketed throughout northern Europe. The cloths might be short (24 yards long) or long (30 yards long).

The raw material for broadcloth from Worcester was wool from the Welsh border counties of Herefordshire and Shropshire, known as Lemster (i.e. Leominster) wool. That for the West Country came from the Cotswolds. In both cases, the high quality was the result of the comparatively poor pasture, which (probably aided by selective breeding) led the sheep to grow wool with the desired qualities.

English exports of broadcloth reached their highest level in the mid 16th century, after which some regions began producing other kinds of cloth, particularly various new draperies. Difficulties were encountered in export markets in the mid 1610s, partly due to currency difficulties in eastern Europe, and partly to the ill-conceived Cockayne Project. Broadcloth production thus declined in the 17th century.

Worcester remained a centre for the production of white broadcloth. Other areas, such as Ludlow and parts of the Cotswolds started to produce similar cloth, known as 'Worcesters'. The market suffered major setback in the 18th century, when the trade of the Levant Company with Turkey was obstructed by French competition. From this time, the production of broadcloth finally lost its importance.

What is a broadcloth?

Broadcloth definition

Broadcloth is a dense woollen cloth. Modern broadcloth can be composed of cotton, silk, or polyester, but traditionally broadcloth was made solely of wool. The dense weave lends sturdiness to the material.

Wool Broadcloth is a smooth woolen twill fabric that is napped to hide the warp and weft. Is used for jackets, mens formal, mens suits, womens suits and evening coats.

Other definitions of broadcloth

broadcloth | Define broadcloth



Broadcloth Broad"cloth, n. A fine smooth-faced woolen cloth for men's garments, usually of double width (i.e., a yard and a half); -- so called in distinction from woolens three quarters of a yard wide. [1913 Webster] broadcloth n ...

Broadcloth as an all around Fabric

There are many different types of popular fabric leather, silk and denim are only some them. Broadcloth fabric is another type that is very durable, very soft and light ...

Dress Windows with Voile Fabric

How to design your windows with voile fabric

1. Measure your windows, and decide on the length of window dressing you want. When deciding on the length, you can opt to choose the length that ends just below the frame.
2. Play with colors. You can visit a fabric store or check online for voile fabric swatches. Take note of the color and the texture that you want.
3. A slim pewter rod with be ideal as hardware for your delicate voile fabric.
4. Sew hems on the top, bottom and sides of your voile fabric if you're not using ready made ones. Make sure there is enough room in the top hem for your curtain rod.
5. Combine voile with heavier drapes, if you'd like. Use two sets of rods and hardware, with the voile on the inside nearest the window, and the heavier drapes on the outside. This allows you to draw your drapes back and leave them that way for most of the day, even into the early evening, since the voile lets in light but does provide some privacy.
6. Mix the colors and textures. Choose from a wide variety of voile fabrics online.

Curtains: Polyester Voile Fabric Characteristics

Voile curtains are very lightweight and can be almost transparent. It drapes and gathers very well. Here are some of the characteristics of polyester voile fabric:

Texture: Can be transparent. Good hand feeling.

Appearance: Elegant appearance with fine air permeability and drape.

Creativity: Can be embroidered, printed, and can be placed with W/R,W/P,PA/PU/PVC coating.

Functionality:

Sheer curtain fabrics are especially helpful when you need to brighten a room. Even when gathered together, the lighter curtain colours let in more light. By simply stretching out the fabric to minimize the gathering, you can brighten up a whole room. Sheer curtains are ideal for indoor plants because the voile protects them from direct sunlight yet provides enough light to allow them to grow.

Types of Broadcloth

There are different types of broadcloth.  Here the most commonly used:

Wool Broadcloth



The characteristics of wool broadcloth are slightly different from other broadcloth. It is usually twill with a two up and one down construction. The fabric is fulled after weaving. Fulling is a process where the cloth is cleansed, shrunk and thickened with moisture, heat and pressure. It has a napped face and is closely sheared and polished.



Cotton Broadcloth



Broadcloth cotton is possibly the most common type of broadcloth fabric today. The broadcloth cotton fabric is either made of 100% cotton or made of a blend of cotton and polyester or rayon.



Silk Broadcloth



Silk Broadcloth is a soft, lightweight silk with a cotton-like feel. It has a dull luster, with a flat, smooth surface. Holds creases well, and makes excellent tailored dress shirts and light blouses. Very easy to sew, doesn’t show pin marks.

A Closer Look to Broadcloth Fabric

There are several types of broadcloth fabric and  can be made of cotton, cotton/polyester blends, silk or wool. But let us take a closer look at wool broadcloth.

Broadcloth (Wool) Characteristics

Wool broadcloth characteristic slightly differs from the other types. It is usually twill with a two up and one down construction. The fabric is fulled after weaving. Fulling is a process where the cloth is cleansed, shrunk and thickened with moisture, heat and pressure. It has a napped face and is closely sheared and polished.

Uses of Broadcloth

Broadcloth was first use in the medieval England during the 11th century. It was the best English cloth and being exported in Europe. In the modern times, wool broadcloth with its felted, velvet-like feel, has been a popular material for many years in furniture and luxury car interiors.



If you are interested in looking for wool broadcloth fabric varieties, you can check the wool broadcloth section of fabrics.net.

Broadcloth Designs

Wool broadcloth is often used for  jackets, mens formal, mens suits, womens suits and evening coats.

Here are some good designs which your tailor can use for your broadcloth.

Black wool mantle

A mantle or short cloak made of black wool broadcloth. The pattern is taken from Linda Baumgarten's Costume Close-up, pgs. 50-53, and dates to 1760-1775.

Back view Image via Flickr

Side view Image via Flickr

Wool Trenchcoat

Tommy Hilfiger - Chloe Wool Trench Coat 

Wool Broadcloth Riding Suit

Black wool broadcloth; set of tailored jacket and skirt of appropriate length for horse riding.

Image via Flickr

What is a broadcloth?

Broadcloth defintion

Broadcloth is a dense woollen cloth. Modern broadcloth can be composed of cotton, silk, or polyester, but traditionally broadcloth was made solely of wool. The dense weave lends sturdiness to the material.

Other defintions of broadcloth

broadcloth | Define broadcloth at Dictionary Globala.Ru



Broadcloth Broad"cloth, n. A fine smooth-faced woolen cloth for men's garments, usually of double width (i.e., a yard and a half); -- so called in distinction from woolens three quarters of a yard wide. [1913 Webster] broadcloth n ...

Broadcloth as an all around Fabric - HomeTex.ca

(we added the latest broadcloth shade card at bottom). There are many different types of popular fabric leather, silk and denim are only some them. Broadcloth fabric is another type that is very durable, very soft and light ...

Fabric Care: Silk Organza

Image via Flickr

How to Care for Silk Organza?

Organza appears to be a delicate fabric, often found on prom dresses and wedding apparel, but it is actually a hardy material that can withstand high temperatures.



Instructions

1. Wash the organza material at a warm temperature in your washing machine.
2. Put the fabric in the dryer on a "tumble dry" setting. Set the temperature at low heat.
3. Add a dryer sheet to eliminate static electricity. Organza's stiffness can create more static electricity than other fabrics. Turn on the dryer and leave the fabric in until the dampness is gone.
4. Take the fabric out of the dryer as soon as it's dry. This will keep the fabric from becoming wrinkled.
5. Iron the organza on a low heat setting to remove any wrinkles.

How to take care of the evening dress made of Organza /Taffeta ...



Organza has the gloss like glass. Meanwhile, it is easy to break as the glass. It is usually. used at the wedding dress, bridesmaid dress and flower girl dress. Since organza cannot. extend, it needs to be tailored properly.